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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,
Just got my 2022 GV70 3.5 Prestige and As good as the audio system is, I prefer to add a Aftermarket Subwoofer. Wanted to see if anyone could point me in the right direction of wiring harness locations and color pin outs for tapping into the existing subwoofer to tap for audio outs for an aftermarket sub amp. I have not located wiring details for this car yet.
Thanks!

also, side note, if anyone else has done this on a 2021 or 2022, please do share!

-Bstevenf
 

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Hi,
Just got my 2022 GV70 3.5 Prestige and As good as the audio system is, I prefer to add a Aftermarket Subwoofer. Wanted to see if anyone could point me in the right direction of wiring harness locations and color pin outs for tapping into the existing subwoofer to tap for audio outs for an aftermarket sub amp. I have not located wiring details for this car yet.
Thanks!

also, side note, if anyone else has done this on a 2021 or 2022, please do share!

-Bstevenf
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Registered
Joined
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1 Posts
Hi,
Just got my 2022 GV70 3.5 Prestige and As good as the audio system is, I prefer to add a Aftermarket Subwoofer. Wanted to see if anyone could point me in the right direction of wiring harness locations and color pin outs for tapping into the existing subwoofer to tap for audio outs for an aftermarket sub amp. I have not located wiring details for this car yet.
Thanks!

also, side note, if anyone else has done this on a 2021 or 2022, please do share!

-Bstevenf
Following...about to try the same thing soon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
OK, For those following... I have done a bunch of research and gained a ton of knowledge. So, I wanted to share....


First, My car is the 3.5T and has the Lexicon System with Sub. It performs well, in fact well enough that this is NOT really needed for most people, BUT, I like excess and wanted just a little deeper bass and a little more headroom on the bass, without needing to max out the Stereo EQ Bass setting. I was riding it at 4-5 and it was "ok".


So, My plan was to add a 12" SEALED Sub. Now, if you are someone who wants Shake the windows close to breaking-Hear it a block or two away Bass, this is NOT the cabinet for you. You will want a Ported or Vented Sub. I prefer Quality at Volume, and thus sealed is the way to go for me. It won't be audible a block away, but it will sound accurate at Higher Volumes, without crapping out, and it will offer a deeper bass response than the Factory Lexicon sub is capable of.


My sub of choice was a 12” Kicker Comp VR DVC(4ohm), in a 1cu foot box. Having a Dual 4 OHM Voice Coils allows me to wire them in parallel and get to 2 OHMs. This is critical for the additional hardware I chose.


This car does NOT have an easy way to retrieve a 12V Turn-on Lead from the location by the AMP in the back of the car like you can for getting the Speaker Level Audio, so, unless you want to run a line all the way to your Fuse panel to tap into a Switched 12v lead there, your easiest bet is to get a Speaker Level to Line Out box that supports audio sensing. AudioControl supports this using something they call “GTO” technology or “Great Turn On” (Stupid name), but it works. It Senses audio on the speaker level line and then gives you a switched 12V OUT, if needed as well, so if you are adding an external AMP, you can use that for the Turn on. They have this in multiple products.


I saw others suggesting the AudioControl LS2, which is perfect if you are also adding an external amp, BUT…they also have a solution called ACM-1.300. This is basically a LS2, WITH a digital AMP built-in. All-in-one. Now, the kicker is, you really only get enough Wattage IMO if you are running 2 OHMs. This AMP will put out 300W at 2 OHMs and I have heard others say they have tested it to put out way more than that supposedly. So, since MY speaker choice is looking for 300-400 Watts at 2 OHM’s this just happens to match up perfectly. If you do a lesser quality Kicker Comp than I chose, you can get them with 2 OHMs and ONLY needing 300W, which is even closer.


The best part of the ACM-1.300 is it is SUPER small, so I will fit UNDER your carpet if needed. (It might run hot there, so I simply mounted it on back of my sub cabinet.


So, you will see included in this is a Pic of the ACM-1.300, and how it is recommended to wire it. The Manual for the ACM-1.300, and DRUM ROLLLLLLLLLL The FULL wiring pinout for the Car Audio for the 2022 Genesis GV70!!!

Font Parallel Rectangle Diagram Drawing



You WILL need to run a 8 or 10 AG Power wire TO the battery under the hood, which will be your most difficult task, but you can easily tuck that under the floor trip without even pulling it up, if you're creative. You will also need to connect a ground, which you can do with a Self tapping screw on exposed metal under your carpet near your AMP. Just DON'T drill too deep, and not on the outer wall! (Look for a bolt you can simply loosen and screw your Ground Spade under, much easier and safer).


And you too can get this update done fairly fast.


Total Estimated Costs…


If you are on a Budget and looking to cut corners…


  1. Used 12” Sub and Cabinet - $100 (I got mine for $85)
  2. AMP Power Wiring Kit - $21 on Amazon (Comes with Speaker wire, Power, Ground wire, Fuse, spade connectors and extras you won’t need like RCA, etc) (Search BOSS KIT2 Amplification)
  3. Audio Control ACM-1.300 -Full retail is like $300, You can get on ebay new for $240. I got mine for $185. Open box special.

Total, if ON a Budget: $365-ish



If you are NOT on a Budget and looking to buy Newer…


  1. New Sub Box / Enclosure - $75.
  2. New 12” Sub and Cabinet - $200.
  3. AMP Power Wiring Kit at typical Car audio store - $60(Comes with Speaker wire, Power, Ground wire, Fuse, spade connectors and extras you won’t need like RCA, etc)
  4. Audio Control ACM-1.300 -Full retail is like $300. At typical Walk-In Store.

Total, if NOT on a Budget: $630-ish


**If you are looking for 'Shake the windows close to breaking-Hear it a block or two away Bass', then you will want to just use an Audio Control LS2 which will give you the "Turn On" lead as well as the Preamp Outputs for running to the amp of your choice, and you can then add ANY speaker/Amp you desire. I would recommend a Digital Amp to keep size down and the heat factor, but, you can still do all this for probably around $500-$600.

Font Paper product Number Paper Document
 

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